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Pattern #9b: Jubon de Seda
Version of Pattern 9b
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In order to cut this joupon (doublet and sleeves) of silk, to take advantage of the slant, it is necessary to cut the pattern pieces this way: half on the weft grain, and half on the warp grain, in the first place it leaves two pattern pieces of sleeves on the weft grain, and one back, and front, and the other two pattern pieces of sleeve to the slant, and back and front also. This layout requires three baras of silk of two thirds (of a bara) in width. This leaves everything cut out for the pattern.
Slant: this particular pattern layout was used when there was a bias stripe to the fabric that was to be used as a decorative feature. This is one of those instances where such a garment would be termed "decorated on the bias" but obviously not cut out on the bias.
Bara: Also sometimes written as vara. A unit of length roughly equivalent to 83.52 centimeters or just under 33 inches. Other measurements used were the el and the cana (Catalonia). According to these figures, the above length of clothe would measure a bit less than 99 inches in length, or 2.75 yards and would be 22 inches in width. It should be noted that this equivalency is from a 20 th century source.