2>Replica from the Burguen
is a recreation of a man's doublet, sleeves and breeches.
The pattern was taken from a tailor's pattern book published
in 1618 by Francisco de la Rocha de Burguen. The pattern,
titled #146 Calcon de seda, ropilla, y jubon al sesgo
(Breeches of silk, doublet and jerkin cut on the bias), is
one of only two extant patterns showing clothing cutting on
the bias to take advantage of vertical or horizontal stripes.
The tailoring techniques to make a garment cut completely
on the bias which does not stretch out of shape or is ill
fitted are fairly straightforward. The most necessary part
is the interlining and lining of the garment which is NOT
cut on the bias. These two layers, with the interlining being
sandwiched between the lining and the outer shell, become
the foundation for the bias cut outer shell. This foundation
insures that the outershell does not stretch out of shape
and is capable of being tailored and fitted to the body.
There is, however, a great deal of waste associated with
cutting a garment out on the bias. This is a mixed blessing
for the tailor, as most of the scraps or 'cabbage' would also
be bias cut and therefore only usable under certain circumstances.
The amount of fabric necessary to cut on the bias is about
one and one half times as much as is required for a straight
grain cut garment, which meant that the bias cut garment was
much more expensive.
For this particular garment, I choose an odd ribbed, medium
weight courderoy, a medium weight linen and, for the interlining,
a medium weight muslin. The lines of the Cavalier period are
a little less severe than those for the Elizabethan period.
Had this been an Elizabethan era set, I would have choosen
a light canvas or heavy even weave cotton for the interlining
as it would've needed to not only be the foundation for the
outershell but would also have some stress from fitting tightly
around the body.
After all fabrics had been washed, I laid the courderoy out
first, situated my pattern pieces on the bias, checking to
make sure that all pieces were slanted the same way and the
same angle and then cut all the shell pieces, excluding the
collar and shoulder wings. I then laid the mulsin interlining
and linen lining out together, and cut all pattern pieces
according to the straight of grain.
When constructing the garment components, I
placed the interlining and outershell together and treated
them as one piece of fabric throughout the entire process.
Lastly, from the various scraps, I cut the collar
pieces, shoulder wings and breach cuffs.
In order to reinforce the seams of the doublet
at the shoulders and at the sides, I purchased a couple of
skeins of perle cotton of the same color as the courderoy
and made them into braid. These braids were then tacked down
prior to finishing the seams. For a demonstration braid making,
here for a large
version of Pattern 146
A closer look at the details of the above garments:
|Back of Doublet
|Detail of side
||Detail of shoulder
|Detail of trim
||Detail of pants interior